[Clearance! Tsurezure Hanako's Wine Mysteries Vol. 6] There are wine producing regions all over the world, but what's the difference?
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Hanako Tsurezure is a writer and food expert who loves alcohol, food, and travel. She drinks plenty of wine every day. However, she seems overwhelmed by the unique world of wine, where varieties, origins, vintages, and other factors are all intricately intertwined.
Hanako learned about the six basic varieties in Vol.5. She tasted red wine at a winery in India in early summer and was impressed by its rich and powerful flavor. At the same time, she began to wonder about the differences in wine-producing areas across the country, and asked Kawa, a sommelier at Enoteca, about it.
Click here for the previous article
A writer and culinary researcher who loves alcohol, food, and travel. Her books include "47 Years Old, I Started Having a Leisure Drink in the Evening" (KADOKAWA), which is a recipe for quick and healthy snacks to go with alcohol, and "Tsuredure Hanako's Body Preparation Bowl" (Gakken), which is a record of preparing side dishes that get your intestines moving so that you can drink healthily and enjoyably even when you become a grandmother. We traveled four hours from Mumbai to the winery "Sula," where we purchased Cabernet Sauvignon, sparkling Syrah, and dessert wine. We stored them in our suitcases and brought them home.
JSA Sommelier, JSASAKE DIPLOMA. Born in Kyoto Prefecture. His love of wine led him to leave an IT company and join Enoteca in 2018. After working in sales at two locations in Tokyo, he is now involved in content creation in the marketing department. He is also a fan of Chardonnay vinified in Yamagata.
Hanako
Professor, I have a question! In the previous article, "Vol. 5: There are so many grape varieties!", I was able to understand the differences between varieties. The Cabernet Sauvignon I drank in India recently was more robust and spicy than any I had had before. It went very well with Indian food. I feel like the same variety gives a different impression depending on where it is produced. Why is this?
river
As expected, Hanako-san has a keen insight. In addition to the "variety," the "place of origin" also plays a deep role in the taste. As I told you last time, wine is basically made only from grapes, so in addition to the characteristics of the variety, the individuality of the land is also reflected.
Hanako
I see. So does that mean we have to learn the characteristics of each country?
river
It's hard to remember all the unique characteristics of each "producing area" around the world, so I'll narrow it down to two main points here.
Hanako
Yes! I've been waiting for this!
river
They are roughly divided into "warm-growing regions" and "cool-growing regions." The reason for this category is that the way grapes ripen changes.
Hanako
The way grapes ripen... I'm starting to understand that wine is an agricultural product.
river
That's right. I'll explain each one in detail. First, take a look at the world map.
river
まず、北緯及び南緯30〜40度付近に位置するのが「暖かい産地」です。国を挙げると、アメリカ・カリフォルニア、オーストラリア、チリ（※1）になります。太陽の光をたっぷりと浴びてブドウはしっかりと熟します。 そのため、ここでできたワインの香りや風味は凝縮感のある果物に例えられることが多いです。白ワインならマンゴーやパイナップル、赤ワインならプルーンやブラックベリーなどで表現されます。
*1 Even within the country in question, there are cool areas due to high altitudes, proximity to the sea, etc.
Hanako
The "full and juicy" white wine that I like seems to be produced in this area.
river
ご名答です！ 続いて「涼しい産地」は北緯及び南緯40〜50度付近に該当します。フランス・シャンパーニュ地方、ドイツなどがそうです。涼しい産地ではブドウが高い酸度を保ったまま熟すことができます。 そのためここでできたワインの香りや風味はよく爽やかな果物に例えられます。代表的なのものとしては白ワインなら青リンゴ、グレープフルーツ、赤ワインならイチゴやラズベリーといったところです。
Hanako
Which one will Japan be?
river
Due to the geography stretching from north to south, it is difficult to generalize, but Hokkaido is a "cool producing area" and Kyushu is a "warm producing area." Yamanashi is somewhere in between, but while there are hot areas in the summer, the higher altitude areas are cooler. Therefore, it cannot be said that it is one of them all. As you can see, there are exceptions in each country, but if you remember that they can be broadly divided into "warm producing areas" and "cool producing areas," you will be able to get a general idea of the situation.
Hanako
yes i will!
river
So, let's do a tasting here.
Hanako
yay!
river
Hanako, have you ever tried Chablis?
Hanako
Yes. The manga "Oishinbo" teaches us that oysters go well with Chablis! It has a refreshing and crisp taste that is delicious!
river
That's right! Chablis is France's leading white wine, made from Chardonnay.
Hanako
Wow! I had heard that Chardonnay is plump and juicy, but that's not the case at all!
river
I will explain the difference between them as I taste them. Chablis and Chardonnay from California, which I tried before and liked. Let's start with Chablis.
Hanako
The aromas are different: Chablis is smoky, California Chardonnay is buttery.
river
The aroma is also clearly different. Chablis has a crisp acidity, while California Chardonnay has a more subdued acidity and a richer mouthfeel.
Hanako
Hmmm... Both are delicious!
river
That's great. The reason why there can be such a big difference even with the same variety is because Chardonnay is particularly susceptible to the influence of the region in which it is grown. Chablis is produced in the cooler regions of northern France, so it is "crisp and fresh." On the other hand, California Chardonnay is grown in warmer regions, so it is "full and juicy." Of course, the flavor is determined by various factors such as the climate, soil, and the producer's work, but for now, let's remember the general terms "warm producing regions" and "cool producing regions"!
Hanako
Chardonnay is very flexible, which helped me to understand the difference between the two wine producing areas.
river
The same goes for the other basic varieties: warmer regions tend to produce wines with rich fruit flavors and soft acidity, while cooler regions tend to produce wines with delicate, refined fruit flavors and firm acidity.
Hanako
I see. I feel like I'm gradually becoming better at choosing wines.
river
さらに、今回飲んでいただいたシャルドネは、熟成させるときの容器でも味わいが大きく違ってくるんですよ。 容器は大まかに2つあって、一つはステンレスタンク。ワインをステンレスタンクに保存しておくと、ブドウのピュアでフレッシュな風味が感じられるスタイルに仕上がります（※2）。今回では涼しい産地で造ったシャブリがステンレスタンクを用いて造られています。 二つ目は、木樽（オーク樽）です。造ったワインを木樽に保存しておくと、木樽の成分がワインに染み込んでいき、複雑なスタイルになります（※3）。今回のカリフォルニアのシャルドネは、木樽を用いて造られているんですが、バニラのような香りを感じませんでしたか？
*2 Stainless steel tanks do not allow air to pass through, so the freshness is maintained, resulting in a pure wine. *3 Wooden barrels allow oxygen to pass through more easily than stainless steel tanks, so the wine comes into contact with air, resulting in a mellower impression.
Hanako
That being said, it smells like vanilla.
river
For white wines, the aroma is a sign that the wine has been aged in a wooden barrel. For red wines, if you notice aromas like coffee or cinnamon, it may have been aged in a wooden barrel!
Hanako
Can I check the aging method on the label?
river
It is not generally stated on the label, so it is extremely difficult for even us to decipher it from the label, so don't be afraid to ask a sommelier.
Hanako
The conversation will make you feel like an expert. In "Vol. 5: There are so many grape varieties!", I learned that the "variety" is very important. To be honest, I didn't think the "place of origin" was that important. But I learned that, just like the difference in the "variety," the difference in the climate of the "place of origin" has a big impact on the taste of the wine. The "place of origin" is also an important factor in finding a taste that you like. Now that I can look at wines on a country-by-country basis, my horizons have broadened once again. The more I learn about wine, the more new doors open for me.
river
I'm glad you're absorbing it so quickly.
Hanako
Tonight, as a review, I will enjoy a glass of Chablis, a wine made in a cool region.
Text by Mako Matsuoka Illustration by Nanayo Suzuki
Hanako Column: After the interview
What tends to confuse wine beginners is not only the "variety" but also the "origin" as in this case.
I thought, "I wonder if I have to memorize this thoroughly too," but Professor Kawa was amazing! He told me that I could start by determining whether it was a "warm producing area" or a "cool producing area," rather than by the place name. Moreover, the reason for this was so clear that it motivated me, thinking, "I think I can understand this!"
From the previous article, I was able to somehow link the taste of grapes with the variety. That's why this comparison made a lot of sense. I'm happy that I now have a little bit of a common language for wine.
What I found interesting was that because the only raw material for wine is grapes, the taste of the finished product changes significantly depending on the climate. Oh, is this the "terroir" that I've heard of?
Now that I think about it, I remember a beer brewer once said, "To put it bluntly, beer can be made the same way anywhere. That's why craft beer these days adds local specialties to give it its distinctive character." Even though it's the same alcohol, the way the ingredients are used is completely different.
Also, after comparing the different varieties, I was convinced that some are more susceptible to environmental influences. Perhaps the key to the difference in the taste of Chardonnay is the environment in which it was grown... From now on, when I choose Chardonnay, I think I'll be able to find one I like if I keep the place of origin in mind. In my case, I think "I like Chardonnay from California" is a good hint.
The final product will vary depending on the type of container, as well as the combination of variety and place of origin. The world of wine is truly complex... In the past, I would have given up at this point, thinking, "This is too difficult," but this time, I was so excited I wanted to know more!
The snack this time is "Sautéed salted mackerel with cherry tomato sauce" to go with the refreshing Chablis. The rich flavor of the cherry tomato sauce will help to clear up the fat from the mackerel.
レシピ：塩サバのソテー ミニトマトソース
[Material for 2 people]
2 slices of salted mackerel
2 tablespoons flour
10 cherry tomatoes
1/2 teaspoon of sake A
A 1/2 teaspoon soy sauce
A 1/2 teaspoon mirin
A 1/2 piece of grated ginger
1 tablespoon olive oil
Your favorite leafy vegetables, as needed
Bread as needed
[How to make]
1. Coat the salted mackerel with flour. Cut the cherry tomatoes in half. Mix A in a bowl.
2. Heat 1/2 tablespoon of olive oil in a frying pan over medium heat, and place the mackerel skin side down in the frying pan. Once golden brown, flip it over, cook for another 2-3 minutes, and then remove from the frying pan.
3. Wipe the same frying pan with a paper towel, heat the remaining olive oil over low heat, add the cherry tomatoes and fry. When it thickens and releases liquid, add A, turn off the heat, and pour over the mackerel. Serve with leafy vegetables and bread.
Text by Tsurezure Hanako Photos by Kiichi Fukuda
The wine featured in this column is
Chablis
White
Elegant & Mineral
Domaine has won numerous awards in prestigious wine magazines and competitions. A standard and popular Enoteca bottle with an excellent balance of plump fruit and acidity. view the details
4.1
(72 items)2022
3,960 yen
(tax included)
D 90
